{"id":480,"date":"2019-09-23T10:42:30","date_gmt":"2019-09-23T10:42:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/?p=480"},"modified":"2019-11-29T17:02:59","modified_gmt":"2019-11-29T17:02:59","slug":"what-is-calico","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/what-is-calico\/","title":{"rendered":"What is Calico? Hint: It’s Cotton, not just the Colour of a Cat"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

What is Calico Fabric?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Although you may not notice it, Calico is everywhere, often\nserving as a neutral base for creativity. Artists canvases, fashion designers\u2019\nmock-up dresses, curtains, pillow cases, furnishings and bags are just a few\nuses. How can one fabric be so versatile? Exactly what is Calico fabric, and\nwhy has it been one of the go-to fabrics since the 11th<\/sup> century?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What is Calico made from?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Calico is woven from cotton fibres, and being made from cotton crops it\u2019s completely natural. Because of its unfinished state, there are often flecks of cotton seeds visible in the fabric. It tends to have a cream or grey tinged finish, making it the perfect base to be dyed or printed on.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"woven<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

How is Calico made?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Calico fabric is a plain-woven textile, made from\nhalf-processed and unbleached cotton fibres. It\u2019s a coarse and rough fabric,\nbut not as sturdy as denim or canvas, nor as fine as Muslin. Calico is\ngenerally very cheap due to it\u2019s unfinished nature, and the fact that it\nremains un-dyed and raw.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The process of making calico is essentially the same as making cotton cloth, but stopping before the cotton is fully processed. Textile mills receive raw cotton in bales and generally process them in stages. They first pull the fibres into alignment and remove impurities. They smooth the fibres out, spin the fibres to strengthen them and then begin the weaving course. Calico fabric is created using a \u2018plain\u2019 weave which sees the lengthwise yarns (the weft) passing over and under the crosswise yarns (the warp), alternating each row.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"calico<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

What is Calico Fabric used for?<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Calico is perhaps one of the most versatile fabrics used\ntoday, with an extensive array of purposes. Why? Because calico can include a\nvast variety of qualities and can range from soft and sheer, to strong and\ncoarse.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

One of the most popular uses of calico is for designers \u2018toiles\u2019. That\u2019s the mock up of a garment before it\u2019s created with the final fabric, to experiment with a design using cheap material first. Because calico fabric can be sturdy and durable, it\u2019s often used for items such as bags, aprons, curtains and furnishings. Those items will see daily wear and tear, but need to remain strong and withstand some abrasion and dirt. A huge amount of calico fabric is bleached and dyed and can be used for almost every item of clothing or household items.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"calico<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The History of Calico<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Calico has a long and cultured history as one of the oldest\nmaterials in India. The fabric was discovered by the British during their reign\nin the country. Historians have estimated that India produced around a quarter\nof the world\u2019s cloth, even without industrial machines. \u2018Calico\u2019 comes from the\nword \u2018Calicut\u2019 which was a European name for the city of Kozhikode, in Kerala\n(Southwestern India).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Even as early as the 12th<\/sup> century, Calico\nwas mentioned by the writer Hemachandra. He described it as a \u201cprinted fabric\nwith Lotus pattern\u201d. The city of Calicut became renowned for producing this\nsought-after cloth, and was frequented by designers, merchants and buyers from\naround the world. Weavers created Calico using S\u016brat cotton, which made the\ntextile cheap and durable; much like it is today. The sturdy nature of the\nfabric ensured it passed the test of time and lasted centuries.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

During the 15th<\/sup> century, calico from Indian\nGujarat travelled as far as Egypt and Northern Africa. In the 17th<\/sup> century\ntrade with Europe began. It was in the 16th<\/sup> century that England\nbecame well acquainted with Indian calico, after seizing a Portuguese ship\nwhich had the precious fabric on board.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Politics of Cotton<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

England was unable to produce cotton due to its climate, yet\nstill tried to protect their textile market against the popularity of India\u2019s\ncottons and calico. Ultimately it failed, but the British textile manufacturing\nindustry grew and began to thrive in weaving and printing cotton.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

By the mid-19th<\/sup> century, the weaving\nindustries of India were fading away. Instead British cotton goods began to\nreplace them in world markets. This was a result of British merchants in the\nEast India Company gaining financial control over Indian weavers and reducing\ntheir pay. This meant that many workers opted for farming jobs over weaving.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Alongside this, in the early 1800s the British textile market imported cotton from the USA. They also invented machines to weave them quickly and cheaply, manned by low-paid factory workers. Together these factors resulted in the soaring of British calico cotton products worldwide, outselling hand woven and hand-printed cloth.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"calico<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

What is Calico Printing?<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Calico was originally known for being hand-printed, and\nfinished with ornate designs. Nowadays you can print your own calico fabric.\nTry custom printing your original artwork with Contrado for a classic look with\na modern finish.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It really is super simple to get started; order a test print<\/a> (aka. Woven Canvas Fabric @ Contrado) and see for yourself. <\/p>\n\n\n\n

Other Variations of Unfinished Cotton<\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Alongside calico, there are various other fabrics created\nfrom unfinished cotton. These are some of the most popular half-processed\ncotton materials.<\/p>\n\n\n\n