{"id":591,"date":"2019-10-09T14:13:53","date_gmt":"2019-10-09T14:13:53","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/?p=591"},"modified":"2020-09-01T14:47:34","modified_gmt":"2020-09-01T14:47:34","slug":"what-is-velvet","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/what-is-velvet\/","title":{"rendered":"What is Velvet? Patterns in Pile, a Kaleidoscope of Characteristics"},"content":{"rendered":"\n<p>Velvet: once the material embodiment of luxury, now relatively commonplace. How did society&#8217;s perception of velvet change so dramatically&#8230; and what makes velvet expensive or cheap? What is velvet made of? Are there different types of velvet? <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Read on&#8230; and you&#8217;ll find out.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2>How Is Velvet Made? The Weaving Process<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Velvet refers to a type of already-woven fabric, not a fibre. As a <em>pile <\/em>fabric, it consists of two layers of fibres woven into one final material.  <\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>There are two popular ways of weaving pile fabrics:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li>Double Cloth Method<\/li><li>Over-Wire Method<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>For both weaving processes, the threads are initally woven into loops. If creating plain velvet, the necessary tufts are then cut to make a basic pile. Finally, patterns are formed using various design methods, resulting in stylistic names for each branch of the material .<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>See <em>Types of Velvet<\/em> below for more information on patterns in pile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/7880117622_930354b83d_c.jpg\" alt=\"weaving loom\" class=\"wp-image-675\" width=\"540\" height=\"359\" srcset=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/7880117622_930354b83d_c.jpg 799w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/7880117622_930354b83d_c-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/7880117622_930354b83d_c-768x512.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 540px) 100vw, 540px\" \/><figcaption><em>A Weaving Loom<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2>What is Velvet: A Composition<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>There are two main forms of velvet that are created during the weaving process: <\/p>\n\n\n\n<ul><li><strong>Plain Velvet<\/strong> &#8211; refers to velvet that has the characteristic \u2018furry\u2019 hairs projecting from the front of the fabric.<\/li><li><strong>Voided Velvet<\/strong> \u2013 velvet that has its threads woven into the foundation layer, hidden from the front surface: these threads are looped and stick out from the back surface.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<p>For our purposes, we will focus on plain velvet, the most basic form of the material. It is worth noting the nap in plain velvet: this refers to how the velvet feels rough in one direction (against the grain of fabric) and smooth in the other. This rough\/smooth dichotomy in the material is important to consider during the cutting process, as colour is affected with the nap, not just texture (dark = rough \/ light = smooth). This changes the overall look of the finished velvet piece.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h2>A Short History: Is Velvet Expensive?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<h3>The Ancient East<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>The earliest known forms of Velvet were used over 4000 years ago in Ancient Middle Eastern cultures: particularly Iraq and Egypt. These were mainly made from silk or linen and can be best described as pile weaves.<br><br>Velvet was also seen in Ancient China: pieces have been found dating back to 403 B.C (during the Warring States), although the material was more prevalent in society post 221 B.C. (during the Qin and Western Han dynasties). The type of velvet created in this time seemed to largely consist of low, untrimmed piles. <br><br>Velvet was associated with high luxury and royalty in both the Ancient Middle and Far East, due to its complex developmental technique and use of expensive fibres (eg. silk).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"564\" height=\"314\" src=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/48406738786_0d455df4ff_c-e1570612747754.jpg\" alt=\"What is Velvet? Fragment from Iran, Safavid Period\" class=\"wp-image-676\" srcset=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/48406738786_0d455df4ff_c-e1570612747754.jpg 564w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/48406738786_0d455df4ff_c-e1570612747754-300x167.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 564px) 100vw, 564px\" \/><figcaption><em>Fragment of velvet from Iran, Safavid Period<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3>Velvet in the Renaissance<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>In the Renaissance, the popularity of the Silk Road saw the development of Velvet in Italy and Spain from the 12<sup>th<\/sup> to 18<sup>th<\/sup> Centuries. Improved technology during this time also allowed for the cheaper production of fabric. This newfound affordability ultimately resulted in increased (although still exclusive) distribution throughout Europe.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<p>Although Florentine Velvet is particularly notable for the time (Florence was a main hub of culture and wealth during the Renaissance), there was stiff competition between the velvet manufacturers of multiple Italian cities (eg. Venice, Florence and Genoa). This resulted in the close guarding of production secrets: to the point that some top weavers were forbidden to leave their cities.<br><br>In terms of base material and appearance, Renaissance Velvets were more decadent than the fabrics of the Ancient East. For instance, sometimes the final product incorporated threads of gold and silver into the silk fibres. Patterns also adorned the velvet of this time \u2013 often consisting of cut and uncut pile (cisel\u00e9 velvet). Colours were rich, dark and deep, such as royal purples, reds, and blues. Only the wealthiest clientele could afford such luxury  \u2013 eg. the church \/ rich families wanting to display their coat of arms (see the <a href=\"https:\/\/www.luigi-bevilacqua.com\/en\/the-medicis-balls\/\">Medici<\/a> family).<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/medici-florentine-velvet2-1.jpg\" alt=\"Florentine Velvet from the Medici Family\" class=\"wp-image-677\" width=\"566\" height=\"204\" srcset=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/medici-florentine-velvet2-1.jpg 497w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/medici-florentine-velvet2-1-300x108.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 566px) 100vw, 566px\" \/><figcaption><em>Florentine Velvet from the Medici Family<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h3>Modern Times<\/h3>\n\n\n\n<p>Velvet has become more widely produced since the industrial revolution, although it remained the height of luxury for the 18<sup>th<\/sup>, 19<sup>th<\/sup> and early 20<sup>th<\/sup> centuries. The textile characterises the glamour of the 1920s, in which velvet evening gowns and shawls were popular. This popularised the material among the lower classes in Western Society.<br><br>Finally, we can see in the late 70s, 80s and 90s the widespread production of the material; cementing its status as a staple in celebrity fashion of the time.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"319\" height=\"434\" src=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Blue_velvet_dress_of_Diana_Princess_of_Wales.jpg\" alt=\"What is Velvet? Princess Diana in A Velvet Dress\" class=\"wp-image-679\" srcset=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Blue_velvet_dress_of_Diana_Princess_of_Wales.jpg 319w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Blue_velvet_dress_of_Diana_Princess_of_Wales-221x300.jpg 221w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 319px) 100vw, 319px\" \/><figcaption><em>Princess Diana in a Blue Velvet Dress, <\/em><br><em>The White House, Nov 1985<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2>Types of Velvet: A Compendium of Characteristics<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<ul><li><strong>Brocade Velvet <\/strong>\u2013 This velvet has woven into it during the initial weaving process, resulting in raised pile and a woven ground.<\/li><li><strong>Chiffon<\/strong> <strong>Velvet<\/strong> \u2013 Lightweight velvet on a sheer base fabric (eg. silk, chiffon, georgette).<\/li><li><strong>Cisele<\/strong> \u2013 Velvet that consists of cut and uncut pile to create texture and pattern.<\/li><li><strong>Crushed<\/strong> \u2013 The pile of this velvet is pressed \/ twisted after being dampened; both with and against the nap. This technique creates texture and highlights in the fabric colour.<\/li><li><strong>Devore<\/strong> <strong>\/ Burnout<\/strong> \u2013 This method sees the use of caustic chemicals on velvet pile &#8211; which subsequently dissolves to produce a pattern.<\/li><li><strong>Embossed<\/strong> \u2013 This velvet is branded with a heat press, again resulting in a created pattern.<\/li><li><strong>Hammered<\/strong> \u2013 As its name would suggest, this type of velvet is hammered or semi-crushed, creating a beautiful dappled effect on the final product.<\/li><li><strong>Pann\u00e9<\/strong> \u2013 Similar to crushed and hammered velvet \u2013 this velvet has its pile crushed in one direction with a heavy press.<\/li><li><strong>Pile-on-pile<\/strong> \u2013 A velvet with piles of various heights: the different heights then create a pattern.<\/li><li><strong>Silk<\/strong> \u2013 The \u201coriginal\u201d velvet with a beautiful drape and lustre. Known to be extremely difficult to work with and the most expensive type available.<\/li><li><strong>Viscose<\/strong> \u2013 aka. Rayon Velvet. Similar to silk in terms of amount of drape&#8230; but a lot easier to work with and cheaper in terms of production. <\/li><li><strong>Velveteen<\/strong> \u2013 An imitation velvet \u2013 generally made from cotton or a cotton-silk blend. <\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<div class=\"wp-block-image\"><figure class=\"aligncenter is-resized\"><img loading=\"lazy\" src=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Fragment-1024x649.jpg\" alt=\"What is Velvet? Fragment from the Renaissance, 1600-1699, housed in the MET Museum\" class=\"wp-image-678\" width=\"504\" height=\"319\" srcset=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Fragment.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Fragment-300x190.jpg 300w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Fragment-768x487.jpg 768w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Fragment-248x158.jpg 248w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 504px) 100vw, 504px\" \/><figcaption><em>Velvet Fragment from the Renaissance, 1600-1699, housed in the MET Museum<\/em><\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n<h2>What is Velvet Made of? Fibres Used in the Manufacturing Process<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>NB. Most modern forms of velvet consist of different fibres for the base fabric and pile. This cuts down on production cost.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<h4>Natural Fibres<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul><li><strong>Silk <\/strong>\u2013 Most modern \u201csilk\u201d velvet is actually a blend of silk and rayon. Pure silk velvet is rare and still extremely expensive; which may be why velvet still maintains an air of luxury even with mass production.<\/li><li><strong>Cotton <\/strong>\u2013 A very versatile type of velvet. Cotton velvet is easy to work with and used in many different garments, including more affordable styles.<\/li><li><strong>Mohair <\/strong>\u2013 This velvet is naturally resistant to dirt due to qualities of the fibre. This property makes it ideal for upholstery use.<\/li><li><strong>Linen <\/strong>\u2013 This velvet has soft pile but is heavy in terms of the overall fabric. The pile is also dense and slightly irregular, resulting in a vintage\/rugged look. Velvet upholstery (curtains and furniture) often consists of this fibre.<\/li><li><strong>Wool <\/strong>\u2013 A heavily textured velvet (also used in upholstery) with a thick pile.  <\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h4>Synthetic Fibres<\/h4>\n\n\n\n<ul><li><strong>Polyester\/Blend<\/strong> \u2013 Velvet made from polyester or blended materials (eg. rayon, acetate, nylon and wool) is potentially in the most widespread form of the fabric. As blends often include at least one synthetic material, this kind of velvet is easy to work with, resistant to mould and mildew and has a medium pile. Often has a drape comparable to rayon velvet.<\/li><li><strong>Rayon\/Viscose<\/strong> \u2013 See this velvet&#8217;s description in the previous section. Rayon\/Viscose velvet is often used in affordable evening wear and gowns.<\/li><li><strong>Acetate <\/strong>&#8211; Another synthetic velvet, acetate velvet is affordable but easily damaged by moisture\/pressure.<\/li><li><strong>Stretchy Velvet<\/strong> &#8211; A velvet blend with the addition of Lycra, elastane or a similar synthetic fibre with stretch; this gives the velvet a sexy, figure hugging look (depending on cut). Best used in garments.<\/li><\/ul>\n\n\n\n<h2>Velour vs. Velvet: What&#8217;s the Difference?<\/h2>\n\n\n\n<p>Velour is a material similar-to-but-not-the-same-as Velvet, so the two fabrics can easily be confused. Invented in the 1800s in France, it also has a pile weave and is and made from cotton. Knitted instead of woven, velour is stretchier than Velvet, as the production process of the fabric (ie. the knit) produces larger, less taut holes than that of a weave. Velour is used for drapery, upholstery and sports wear, as the shorter pile and knitted weft make it more durable than its counterpart.<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1000\" height=\"758\" src=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Purple_velour_pillow-1.jpg\" alt=\"purple velour cushion\" class=\"wp-image-770\" srcset=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Purple_velour_pillow-1.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Purple_velour_pillow-1-300x227.jpg 300w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/10\/Purple_velour_pillow-1-768x582.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><figcaption>A Purple Velour Cushion<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<p>Intrigued? Inspired? Want to work with \/ wear more velvet? Check out our swatch packs: with <a href=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/types-of-fabrics\">110+ types of fabric<\/a> (five of which are velvet), we have the perfect material for everyone. Click the banner below:<\/p>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/fabric-swatch-pack\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"825\" height=\"300\" src=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/fabric-swatch-pacpoly-k.jpg\" alt=\"\" class=\"wp-image-357\" srcset=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/fabric-swatch-pacpoly-k.jpg 825w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/fabric-swatch-pacpoly-k-300x109.jpg 300w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/09\/fabric-swatch-pacpoly-k-768x279.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 825px) 100vw, 825px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n\n\n\n<figure class=\"wp-block-image\"><a href=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/students\"><img loading=\"lazy\" width=\"1000\" height=\"50\" src=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Student-Discount-Banner.jpg\" alt=\"student discount banner\" class=\"wp-image-880\" srcset=\"https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Student-Discount-Banner.jpg 1000w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Student-Discount-Banner-300x15.jpg 300w, https:\/\/au.contrado.com\/blog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/11\/Student-Discount-Banner-768x38.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 1000px) 100vw, 1000px\" \/><\/a><\/figure>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Velvet: once the material embodiment of luxury, now relatively commonplace. How did society&#8217;s perception of velvet change so dramatically&#8230; and what makes velvet expensive or cheap? What is velvet made of? Are there different types of velvet? Read on&#8230; and you&#8217;ll find out. How Is Velvet Made? The Weaving Process Velvet refers to a type [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":683,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_yoast_wpseo_title":"%%title%% %%page%%","_yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"What is Velvet? Once the material embodiment of luxury, now commonplace. How did society's perception of velvet change so dramatically? Read this post!"},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v16.7 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/wordpress\/plugins\/seo\/ -->\n<title>What is Velvet? Patterns in Pile, a Kaleidoscope of Characteristics<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"What is Velvet? 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